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April News 2003 |
News and Updates for April 2003 Welcome to our monthly "Newsletter". This is where we announce the most recent additions to our website along with "what's happening in our gardens", helpful hints, herbal tips, etc. Please check back often as we will be updating regularly. To view our Mother's Day Gift Basket specials please visit the following link: http://www.countryrosesoap.com/storefront.htm What's happening in our garden for April: With all the tragic news in the world lately I find I appreciate gardening all the more. My gardens are a place of refuge, continuity and time away from all the sadness around us. Growing plants from seeds is particularly rewarding, especially herbs. From sowing, to transplanting, to growing, harvesting and finally infusing these herbs into our many skin care products is an extremely satisfying process for me. When you visit our website you will see many new changes. My daughter-in-law is the beautiful girl featured on the new "enter" page. http://www.countryrosesoap.com All the new pictures have been photographed by my talented son. I am extremely lucky to have such a multi talented and supportive family. My husband and I just celebrated our 30th wedding anniversary. I hope you like our new updates and would greatly appreciate any feedback you may have - positive or negative. Our fall rye was rototilled in a couple of weeks ago so I am anxious to get my early vegetable crops in that are happily growing in the greenhouse. The greenhouse is so full now that I can barely get in the door. Some of our fruit trees and ornamental shrubs are literally ready to burst open into flower, the Lenten roses have been blooming for quite awhile now along with our spring bulbs. Each year though I seem to lose so many daffodil bulbs that I am almost ready to give up on them. All in all though spring looks like it is truly here. God bless us all and lets hope for a speedy and peaceful end to this world crisis. April "To Do" List: -turn compost bin from previous season. -sift and spread compost from bin now ready - spread about a 2" layer over all beds. -plant up hanging baskets and planters - do not put out yet but place in a sheltered area until there is no chance of frost. -transplant broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, onions, lettuce and kohlrabi to vegetable garden - make sure to harden off transplants for 5 days. -direct sow peas, radicchio, kale, collards, oriental greens, parsnips, carrots, turnips, parsnips, spinach and more lettuce. -plant garlic if not done in the fall. -direct sow sweet peas and larkspur - add lots of organic matter for sweet peas - I soak my sweet pea seeds overnight to help speed germination. (buy heritage sweet peas for the most fragrant types) -fertilize rose bushes and work in 2 Tbsp of Epsom salts around each bush to promote the production of new canes. For organic control of black spot: Baking Soda Spray Make a baking soda spray by dissolving 1 tsp of baking soda in 1-quart warm water. Add up to 1 tsp of liquid dish soap to make the solution adhere to the leaves. Spray infected plants thoroughly making sure to cover the undersides of the leaves. NOTE: Make sure to test your solution on a couple of plants first - spray a small part of the plant and leave 24 hours to make sure plant has not reacted adversely. I never spray any of my rugosa roses as they detest sprays of any kind. -prune early blooming shrubs when flowers are done. -plant dahlias & gladiolus. -finish pruning clematis and wisteria vines. -transplant evergreens up to mid April. -plant containerized stock. -encourage natural predators by planting herbs and flowers. -plant potatoes Growing great potatoes: -quality disease-free seed is a must for a successful start - we save our potatoes from the previous year for planting - this way we don't have to worry about pesticides and insecticides used on the seed potatoes nor genetically altered potato seeds. -adequate size of the seed piece is important, whether it be cut or whole potatoes that are used - first emerging shoots depend on food from the tuber until first developed leaves begin to supply it. Because we have so many seed potatoes I plant the whole potato - if you are purchasing seed potatoes you would want to cut them into pieces leaving a couple of "eyes" centered in each piece - the bigger the piece the better - your cut pieces should be blocky, not skinny. NOTE: do not use supermarket potatoes for seed potatoes as these have often been treated with a sprout inhibitor - there will be no sprouts and no potatoes. -plant your tubers in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked - if planted too early though you run the risk of having the tubers rot in wet spring soil. Also newly emerging shoots can be hit by frost. I usually take the risk and plant as early as I can - many times the emerging shoots get hit by a slight frost but they grow again when the weather warms up. -Mark your rows leaving about 2 feet between rows. Take your hoe and dig a trench about 6" deep along the length of your row. Place each potato tuber 12" apart in the row with the eyes facing upwards. Using your hoe draw soil over the trench from both sides until the seed is covered by about 4" of soil - firm the soil gently. The sprouts will emerge from the ground in 2 to 3 weeks. -as the potatoes grow, weed as necessary and start "hilling up" by pulling up soil along the row on both sides creating a hill around your plant. Repeat this about 3 times throughout the growing season. Never expose the potatoes to daylight as they develop a greenish tinge - this area is toxic and should not be eaten. -because we are plagued with potato blight in our area I cannot grow potatoes without spraying the foliage once every 2 weeks with copper spray. This has totally eradicated the problem. -During dry spells, water at a rate of 1" per week. Check development of potatoes in early summer by digging up a small tuber. If they are too small in size or no tubers have developed, apply an organic liquid feed and check again in 3 or 4 weeks. -dig up early "new potatoes" as needed for a real treat by gently feeling around the base of the plant with your fingers and gently pulling the potatoes out - make sure to not disturb the roots and other tubers too much. -Mature potatoes are ready for harvest when the leaves and stalks of the plants begin to turn brown and die back in the fall. Cut the stems off above the ground and let the potatoes remain in the soil for a week or two before lifting them with a garden fork. I use my hands and is one of my favourite jobs in the garden. -Harvest on a dry sunny day and let them rest in the sun for a couple of hours turning once - Place only perfect blemish free potatoes in sacks and store in a cool dark place. Do not let them freeze during storage. Make sure to save some for next year's seeds. Greenhouse Gardening for April: (for a cool greenhouse kept at 40 - 45F (5 - 7C) -plants in bloom - pelargonium, jasmine (absolutely incredible right now), cyclamen, gerbera, fuchsia, jade, bacopa vine, fibrous begonia. -sow summer annuals -still time to take cuttings of over wintered potted plants. -sow cucumbers, squash, melons, more lettuce, eggplant, okra, swiss chard, and celeriac. -high day temperatures can be a problem this month - ventilation is essential. -cover newly potted plants and rooted cuttings with newspaper during the heat of the day. -water and fertilize regularly. -increase watering of over wintered begonia tubers - start into growth over heating cables. -repot and fertilize over wintered plants - remove dead and twiggy growth - trim back roots. -water and fertilize transplants - harden off for 5 days before planting outside. -for aphids, whiteflies and/or mites spray with Safer's insecticidal soap or make your own mix with the following formula: Homemade Insecticidal Soap: Mix 1 tsp to several tbsp of liquid soap per gallon of water. Start at the lower concentration and adjust the strength to maximize pest control while avoiding plant damage. Pour into spray bottle and test on small portion of plant first. If no damage to leaves occurred spray entire surface of plant to runoff - use every day for 3 days until pests are controlled. Indoor Sunroom or Conservatory: A list of plants presently blooming in our sunroom: -Phalaenopsis Orchids -Paphiopedilum Orchids -Cymbidium Orchids -Oxalis -Gardenia -Jasmine -African Violets Care: -repot houseplants - bring outside on a warm day and gently hose off foliage. -increase watering and fertilizing. -repot orchids after blooming if needed - usually every 2 years unless potted in a moss only mix whereby you should repot every year - bark mixes will last 2 years. -prune back plants that are too tall and straggly or vines that have gotten too long - this increases their bushiness and improves their overall appearance. Herbal Hints: -sow cilantro, parsley and basil - I sow several types of basil. (purple ruffles, Thai basil, Genovese basil) -repot scented geranium, stevia, rosemary, bay and French Lavender growing in pots. -tidy up the herb garden clipping back shrubby, woody plants that have become unruly. (these include thyme, sage and lavender.) -apply a 2" layer of compost. -harvest garlic and regular chives - freeze extra by chopping into pieces, lay on piece of plastic wrap, roll up jellyroll fashion and throw in freezer. (This works beautifully as all I do is slice off a chunk right out of the freezer and remove the piece of plastic wrap before throwing into soup, stir fries, salad dressings, etc. - the flavour is preserved beautifully). New! - Organic Gardening Tips: My parents and grandparents gardened organically and we have been doing the same for 30 years. I have always been a true believer in organic gardening methods versus using commercial fertilizers, pesticides and insecticides - the main reason being I wanted to ensure that my sons were given the very best in nutrition possible. Years ago there was not that much information available but I am happy to see that organic gardening is growing in leaps and bounds - even large chain supermarkets are bringing in more and more organically grown produce along with organic packaged foods. I am only sorry that it has taken this long to become mainstream. One of the most fundamental steps in gardening organically and producing healthy plants is having healthy soil. Compost, a mix of decomposed organic materials, is one of the best things you can add to your soil. Having a compost bin is therefore of utmost importance in organic gardening. The size of your bins depends on the size of your garden. If you suspect that your soil lacks certain nutrients, take a soil sample and have it analyzed by a reputable laboratory. Here is how we have set up our compost system: Compost Bin: Our compost bins are huge but the same principal can be applied to any size of garden. - Build 3 bins fenced on 3 sides with boards or wire - leave front open. - 1st year - fill bin #1 all season by adding grass clippings, prunings, kitchen scraps (other than cooked foods), discarded plants, etc. - now and then sprinkle with dolomite lime and garden soil. Keep moist at all times watering with a garden hose if necessary. - 2nd year - fill bin #2 and flip 1st year's bin contents into the 3rd bin using a pitchfork. (Flipping the compost speeds up decomposing by adding oxygen to the mix.) - 3rd year - 1st year's bin is now ready to use. During the 3rd year season fill your 3rd bin. Continue this cycle and each year you will have healthy, organic compost ready to use in your gardens and for making compost tea. For Compost that is ready faster use the following method: 1) Collect good raw materials such as garden wastes, grass clippings, & kitchen scraps (no cooked foods, meats or oils or you will attract rodents, dogs, etc.) Either build a bin or just layer in a pile on the ground in some inconspicuous corner of your yard. 2) Add your scraps to the pile. 3) Shred or chop large pieces to help speed the process. 4) Layer the materials. 5) Add a compost starter - While layering include several shovelfuls of soil or finished compost to help inoculate the pile with decomposer organisms naturally present in the soil. You can also add lime according to your soil's needs. 6) Keep the mixure damp but not soggy. 7) Turn the pile - Each week turn the pile with a garden fork, fluffing everything up to add oxygen into the pile to hasten decomposition. If it seems dry add some water. As decomposition increases the compost's temperature increases which means it is working. 8) Frequent turning speeds everything up considerably. Health and Wellness Sprouting Edible Seeds: Sprouts are the most nutritionally superior, inexpensive, easy-to-grow food that exists. Sprouting can be done in your kitchen at room temperature, without soil, with little equipment or effort. You can sprout grains and legumes such as wheat, alfalfa, soybeans, garbanzo beans, lentils, navy beans, peas, etc. Sprouted legumes are easier to digest than unsprouted. How to: -viable, edible organic seed -large, clean glass canning jar -clean cheesecloth or coarse cloth -rubber band or canning lid ring. 1) Fill 1/3 of the jar with your chosen seed. 2) Fill jar with water and wash seeds by rinsing a few times. 3) Drain water and add fresh new water to 3/4 full. 4) Soak 4 to 6 hours - 12 to 16 hours for soybeans. Do not soak too long or the water may become cloudy which indicates nutrient loss. 5) Cover jar with cheesecloth or coarse cloth and secure with rubber band or canning lid ring. Set the jar on a sharp angle and allow to drain for 4 to 8 hours. 6) Rinse thoroughly and drain again. Do this every 4 to 8 hours for 1 to 3 days, or until the sprouted part grows to approx. the length of the seed. Between rinsings, ensure that the jar maintains a sharp angle so that all the water drains out of the jar. Remaining water on the sprouts will cause them to decay and will smell sour. 7) Sprouts will be ready to eat in about 48 hours if room temperature is over 70F - longer if your kitchen is a little cooler as ours is especially overnight. Thanks for visiting! Susan |
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